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Ladies und Gents, The Roast Chicken


O.K. So, my efforts to simplify do not get any simpler than this recipe: Roast Chicken with Lemons. There are just four ingredients, people. Four. The recipe is from “Essentials of Italian Cooking” by the almighty Marcella Hazan. The Julia Child of Italy.

The recipe, like Hazan, is a bit fussy. However, don’t be put off by her fastidiousness. Again, you are dealing with just a handful of ingredients. In some ways, following the recipe to the word is therapeutic; know that it is process  but a process, nonetheless, that consistently produces a succulent roast chicken.

When I have the time, I tend to make the Zuni Cafe Roast Chicken–the industry standard, in my opinion. However, when pressed for time, Hazan’s never disappoints.

Oh, the twig-y things you might see in the picture? Thyme leaves. So, I just lied to you. My recipe included 5 ingredients. At the last minute, I shoved a handful of thyme leaves under the skin and up the chicken’s hole. Hawt.

Roast Chicken with Lemons
Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking, Marcella Hazan
Serves 4

A 3 to 4 pound chicken
Kosher Salt
Black pepper, ground fresh from the mill
2 rather small lemons

1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

2. Wash the chicken thoroughly in cold water, both inside and out. Remove all the bits of fat hanging loose. let the bird sit for about 10 minutes on a slightly tilted plate to let all the water drain out of it. Pat it throughly dry all over with cloth or paper towels.

3. Sprinkle a generous amount of salt and black pepper on the chicken, rubbing it with your fingers over all its body and into its cavity.

4. Wash the lemons in cold water and dry them with a towel. Soften each lemon by placing it on a counter and rolling it back and forth as you put firm downward pressure on it with the palm of your hand. Puncture the lemons in at least 20 places each, using a sturdy round toothpick, a trussing needle, a sharp-pointed fork, or similar implement.

5. Place both lemons in the bird’s cavity. Close up the opening with toothpicks or with trussing needle and string. Close it well, but don’t make an absolutely airtight job of it because the chicken may burst. Run kitchen string from one leg to the other, tying it at both knuckle ends. Leave the legs in their natural position without pulling them tight. If the skin is unbroken, the chicken will puff up as it cooks, and the string serves only to keep the thighs from spreading apart and splitting the skin.

6. Put the chicken into a roasting pan, breast facing down. Do not add cooking fat of any kind. This bird is self-basting, so you need not fear it will stick to the pan. Place it in the upper third of the preheated oven. After 30 minutes, turn the chicken over to have the breast face up. When turning it, try not to puncture the skin. If kept intact, the chicken will swell like a balloon, which makes for an arresting presentation at the table later. Do not worry too much about it, however, because even if it fails to swell, the flavor will not be affected.

7. Cook for another 30 to 35 minutes, then turn the oven thermostat up to 400 degrees, and cook for an additional 20 minutes. Calculate between 20 and 25 minutes total cooking time for each pound. There is no need to turn the chicken again.

8. Whether your bird has puffed up or not, bring it to the table whole and leave the lemons inside until it is carved and opened. The juices that run out are perfectly delicious. Be sure to spoon them over the chicken slices. The lemons will have shriveled up, but they still contain some juice; do not squeeze them, they may squirt.

Ahead-of-time note: If you want to eat it while it is warm, plan to have it the moment it comes out of the oven. If there are leftovers, they will be very tasty cold, kept moist with some of the cooking juices and eaten not straight out of the refrigerator, but at room temperature.

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